Getting Around Nairobi Without a Car: Matatus, Buses and Taxis

Matatus: the backbone of Nairobi transport

Matatus, Nairobi's privately run minibuses, are the most widespread form of public transport. Routes are displayed on the front windscreen and along the side. Fares typically range from KSh 50 to KSh 100 for shorter trips within the city, and up to KSh 200 for longer routes such as to Karen or the airport. The main terminals are at Railways, Country Bus Station and Odeon Cinema. From these hubs you can reach most neighbourhoods, including Westlands, Kilimani, Eastleigh and Ngong Road. The vehicles are often crowded and driving can be aggressive, but for short hops they are cheap and frequent. I would use them for daytime trips along well-known corridors, but avoid them after dark if you are unfamiliar with the area.

For visitors, the learning curve is real. You need to know the route numbers or landmarks, and conductors expect cash and local knowledge. Popular routes include Route 111 to Ngong Road and Route 46 to Kawangware. Matatus do not run on fixed schedules; they depart when full. If you are staying in Westlands, the matatu stage near the Sarit Centre can get you to the city centre in about 15 minutes outside peak hours. During rush hour (7–9am and 5–7pm), the same trip can take 45 minutes. I would not recommend matatus for airport transfers with luggage. Instead, use them for short, exploratory trips once you have your bearings.

Buses and the commuter rail

Nairobi has a limited but useful bus network. The Nairobi Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) system is still being rolled out, but existing buses such as those on Route 34 (CBD to Airport) and Route 23 (CBD to Kibera) provide cheap connections. Fares are typically KSh 30–50. The main bus terminals are at Kencom and Odeon. Buses are generally slower than matatus and less frequent, but they can be more comfortable for longer journeys. The commuter rail service, operated by Kenya Railways, runs on a few lines: Nairobi to Syokimau (near the airport), Nairobi to Ruiru, and Nairobi to Embakasi. Trains are infrequent (mostly morning and evening) and not ideal for general sightseeing, but the Syokimau line is handy if you have a late flight and want to avoid traffic. I would skip the train for everyday movement unless your hotel is near a station.

For most visitors, buses and trains are not the primary mode. The rail network is limited and geared towards commuters. The bus system is patchy, and you may wait 20–30 minutes for the right bus. If you are staying in areas like Kilimani or Lavington, you will find more matatus than buses. However, the Syokimau train is worth knowing about: it takes about 30 minutes from the city centre to Syokimau, and a connecting matatu or boda-boda to the airport takes another 15 minutes. That can be cheaper than a taxi, but only if your timing matches the train schedule. I would only use it if my flight left in the late morning and I had checked the timetable in advance.

Taxis and ride-hailing apps

Taxis and ride-hailing services (Uber, Bolt, Little) are the most convenient option for visitors. They are available 24/7 and can be booked via smartphone. A trip from Westlands to the city centre costs around KSh 300–500, while a trip to the airport (JKIA) from the city centre costs KSh 1,500–2,500, depending on traffic. From Kilimani to Westlands, expect KSh 400–600. The main advantage is door-to-door service and fixed pricing through the app. However, surge pricing can apply during peak hours or rain. I would use ride-hailing for evening trips and airport transfers. For daytime exploration, combining a ride-hailing app with short walks is efficient. Avoid unmarked taxis; always use the app to track your ride and share your trip details with someone.

Boda-bodas (motorcycle taxis) are another option, but they are riskier in heavy traffic and not recommended for those unfamiliar with the city. If you do use one, insist on a helmet and agree on the fare beforehand. For groups or families, a private hire car with a driver for a day (typically KSh 5,000–8,000) can be cost-effective and more comfortable than multiple ride-hailing trips. I would book a car with a driver if I planned to visit several spots in one day, such as the Giraffe Centre and the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, both in Karen. Otherwise, ride-hailing apps are my default choice for getting around Nairobi without a car.

Choosing where to stay for easy movement

Your choice of neighbourhood significantly affects how easily you can move around. Westlands is a good base: it has a high concentration of hotels, restaurants and matatu connections to the city centre and beyond. Kilimani and Lavington are quieter, with more mid-range hotels and easy access to ride-hailing. The city centre (CBD) is convenient for business but can be hectic and less pleasant for tourists. If you want to be near the airport, consider hotels in Embakasi or Syokimau, but note that you will rely heavily on taxis for anything else. For a first visit, I would book a hotel in Westlands or Kilimani. Both areas offer a balance of safety, amenities and transport options. Avoid staying in isolated suburbs like Runda or Muthaiga unless you have a specific reason; you will spend more on taxis and have fewer dining choices within walking distance.

When booking, check whether the hotel offers an airport shuttle (some do, often for a fee) and whether it is within walking distance of a matatu stage or a main road where ride-hailing cars can easily find you. A hotel near a landmark such as the Sarit Centre or Yaya Centre makes it easier to give directions to drivers. Also, consider the time of year: during the long rains (April–May) and short rains (November), traffic worsens and matatus can be more crowded. In those months, budget a little more for ride-hailing. For a stress-free trip, I would prioritise a hotel with reliable Wi-Fi for booking rides and a central location over saving a few shillings on room rate. The money you save on transport will likely outweigh a slightly higher room price.